Dior liquid gold7/30/2023 Having struggled to find his feet at Givenchy at times, here Williams kept things simple by reworking everyday pieces that populate every man's wardrobe, with each given a light twist. Cut oversized – either in breadth or length, and with trousers that pooled at the shoes (also seen at the Louis Vuitton show) – these were followed with simple separates, which were anything but. Over at Givenchy, designer Matthew Williams also delved into the tailoring history of the house, opening his show with four beautifully roomy suits. Oversized tailoring at the Givenchy menswear spring/summer 2024 show. It even appeared on the frames of sunglasses and running across heavy-soled loafers. He offered it as chunky knitted jumpers run through with pink, boxy suits and shorts in slubby tweed in shades of blues and greys, and as round-shouldered overcoats in apricot tweed. The famous cross-hatched, stitched Dior cannage pattern is more typically seen on women’s pieces, such as the Lady Dior bag, but Jones reworked it for men this season, as a running theme tying the collection together. Having delved into the haute couture side of Dior a few seasons ago, here he returned to that treasure trove again, adding floral brooches to suit jackets, scattering loose jewels across masculine tops and cardigans, as well as tracing the house cannage patterning in beading. Not only was it hauntingly lovely to witness, this cinematic opening set a tone of quiet wonder, told out in the detailing of Jones' collection. To mark his fifth anniversary at the maison, Kim Jones delivered a show that featured models rising up from the floor on platforms like beautifully dressed statues. The house's cannage pattern featured heavily in the Dior Homme show, as did flourishes of jewellery. With an overall mood of grown-up gentle elegance, the collections offered a dressier yet truly wearable alternative to streetwear. With a far more muted palette than the eye-popping colours seen at Vuitton, other men's labels delivered decidedly easy-going propositions. While Williams pulled out all the stops for his presentation – which featured a gospel choir, performance by Jay-Z and endless Damier checks – other brands went relatively low-key for their shows. With all the buzz around Pharrell Williams's debut for Louis Vuitton last week, it is easy to forget that his was only the opening show of a very busy week in Paris
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